By Kathy Kerby
If you are looking for a homespun place to enjoy breakfast or lunch, look no further than Biscuits on N. Gilbert Road, located just west of Sam’s Club. The owner, Lloyd Melton, has three locations (the other two are in Tempe and Ahwatukee Foothills) where every effort is made to use local and organic ingredients and stay clear of preservatives.
“It’s all about simple pleasures and good company,” he said.
The interior of Biscuits is old-fashioned-meets-modern with red wood paneling above corrugated tin, curtains with a chicken motif and shiny glass windows surrounding the gleaming, multi-level dining room.
The restaurant is near our neighborhood, so it was a short drive for my husband, Lou, and I to visit on a recent weekday for a brunch date. We were seated in a comfortable, sunny booth and greeted by Lisa, our very personable server and the manager of the location.
We spent some time examining the menu since it’s extensive, with breakfast items listed on one side and lunch on the other. The choices are endless, from Biscuits Benedict and Smoked Chicken Jalapeno Alfredo to liver and onions.
After ordering, we began “people watching” and noted diners of all ages cheerfully eating and conversing with each other. Biscuits is so warm and inviting that it seemed like everyone was having a great time. We also noted that the servers greeted many customers by name.
At Biscuits, what else could we order except the Biscuits Special ($9.89)? This is a symphony of great breakfast items: one biscuit with gravy, two eggs any style, a choice of ham, bacon or sausage and a choice of grits, hash brown or country potatoes. We could not wait to dig in and discovered that the fluffy biscuit was smothered with perfectly peppered gravy, the over-easy eggs were cooked exactly as ordered and that the mild sausage and extra crispy hash browns completed the delicious special.
The interestingly named Champion Pancakes ($9.89) is the owner’s original creation. When Lisa delivered them to our table, we were amazed at the size; the two pancakes covered the entire plate and were certainly equal to eight regular pancakes. The whole wheat pancakes were chock-full of granola, fresh blueberries, slivered almonds and cinnamon. We smeared them with whipped butter and drenched them with hot blueberry syrup before savoring each incredible bite of crunchy, chewy goodness.
The Chicken Fried Chicken ($9.89) is a staple at most diners and this lunch special did not disappoint. The hand-breaded fried chicken was fork-tender and the blanket of slightly spicy gravy covered the chicken and the large, fluffy mound of mashed potatoes. With the corn on the side, this was the picture of Southern comfort food.
The Dagwood Club ($9.89) was just one of eight sandwiches that are served with a choice of French fries, fried okra, coleslaw, applesauce, corn, green beans, cottage cheese or a house salad. This sandwich was almost too pretty to eat with its triple-decker stack of tender roasted turkey, country ham, smoked bacon, cheese, lettuce, tomato and house mayo on toasted, whole-wheat bread. It had to be consumed layer by delicious layer.
If you want “good, old-fashioned home cooking the way it was meant to be,” give Biscuits a try. Take out, catering and private parties are available and all military past and present receive a 10 percent discount.
Address: 1235 N. Gilbert Road, Gilbert